Tube City Almanac

August 24, 2004

The Best of Towns, The Worst of Towns

Category: default || By jt3y

Yesterday afternoon, I had to explain to a Picksberger what Renziehausen Park was. Is it like a conservation district? he asked.

No, I said. It's a big regional park in Our Fair City. It's got a bandshell, a fishing lake, softball and baseball fields, tennis courts, hiking and biking trails, the Heritage Center museum, and picnic groves. (I forgot to mention the Jacob Woll Pavilion, where the McKeesport Art Group holds its shows and where the Festival of Trees is held at Christmastime; I also forgot about the rose garden, maintained by the McKeesport Garden Club.)

It's kind of like a cut-down version of South Park (the park, not the TV show), I said.

Wow, he said. He didn't know anything like that existed.

I always enjoy bragging on Our Fair City, so it was nice to tell someone about one of its highlights.

Last night, while cleaning around the house, I heard a call come across the police scanner: Three people had just been wounded in a shooting in the Third Ward. Yikes.

Our Fair City has always fancied itself as a little version of Pittsburgh --- it was McKeesport politician and Daily News publisher W.D. Mansfield, after all, who helped block metropolitan government in the 1920s for fear that Our Fair City would lose its autonomy to Pittsburgh --- and has often duplicated things that were being done by its larger neighbor to the north. You have a symphony? We have a symphony. You have a housing authority? We have a housing authority.

McKeesport never went into Allegheny County Sanitary Authority, choosing to build its own water and sewerage treatment plants; until fairly recently, Carnegie Free Library of McKeesport patrons couldn't borrow books from Carnegie Library of Pittsburgh, and vice versa.

The merits of this feisty independence can be debated, of course. It was easy enough to make the books balance when 7,000 people worked at National Tube and thousands more worked for Firth-Sterling, Kelsey-Hayes, Peters Packing, G.C. Murphy Co. and all of the other companies that called Our Fair City home. If maintaining a separate sewer system was a little more expensive, well, it's only money. (And it kept lots of political operatives on the government payroll, too.)

In at least one way, Our Fair City is a lot like Picksberg. They have debt? We have debt. They have pockets of violent crime? We have pockets of violent crime. They have a population drain? We have a population drain.

Pittsburgh has some very nice neighborhoods, and some very bad ones. McKeesport has some very nice neighborhoods, and some very bad ones. And they're bad for the same reasons: Absentee landlords, too many social-service agencies concentrated in a small area, poverty and crime.

The problem is that Pittsburgh is a whole lot bigger than Our Fair City, so the decay is less evident. Someone who visited only Dahntahn Picksberg or Oakland or Shadyside wouldn't see the back side of East Liberty, for instance. This explains all of the glowing out-of-town press coverage that Pittsburgh has received recently; sure, if you only visited the Golden Triangle, you'd have no idea that people living out in the neighborhoods were frustrated and angry about abandoned buildings and lack of city services.

Whereas in McKeesport, you can't help but see the decline. I've become inured to it, I guess, but when I see it through someone else's eyes, I flinch. I stumbled onto a diary by a couple who rode their bikes from Washington, D.C., to the upper Midwest, passing through the Mon-Yough valley. If this doesn't make you cringe, you're not a McKeesporter:

McKeesport is a horribly dilapidated suburb of Pittsburgh --- when steel left and the malls were built in other towns, this place curled up and died. All it has now is a huge aging population who can't leave and a depressing low-income population.


I could get really defensive here --- gee, I'm sorry that people who have low incomes depress you, jerk! --- but unfortunately, I have to concede that the poor and the elderly represent two large demographics in the Mon-Yough valley.

It gets worse. Here's the next day's entry:

Well, I have to admit that the world did not come to an end. It's so amazing how much better everything is with just a night's sleep. But there is no way in McKeesport (that's my new swear word --- "Go to McKeesport, you jerk. What the McKeesport? Oh, McKeesport!") that I am biking anywhere today.


Uh, ouch.

Keep in mind that they entered Our Fair City via the worst possible route: After arriving in "little Boston," instead of going into McKeesport on Route 48, they came up the old P&LE tracks, through the scrap yard behind Dura-Bond in Port Vue, and then made a wrong turn that took them up the abandoned section of River Ridge Road in Liberty Borough. No place --- not Fox Chapel, not Sewickley Heights --- would look good after that detour.

But even if they had come up Walnut Street, what would they have noticed first? Not the marina or the Palisades. They'd see the abandoned boarded-up buildings at Fort Pitt Steel Casting, PB&S Chemical and Hubbard Mine.

They're not the only visitors whose negative opinions of the Mon-Yough valley I've read recently. Alert Reader Tim last week told me that Utne Reader had done a story recently about Eastland Mall. The story, reprinted from a magazine called Clamor, is frustrating in many ways, but it's hard to think anyone could come away with a positive impression of the area after seeing Eastland.

More on this subject tomorrow.






Your Comments are Welcome!

I live in McK, I don’t particularly enjoy it, but at least it’s not Braddock. Now THAT is a depressing ride.
pointy stick (URL) - August 24, 2004




I just have to say that McKeesport has a lot of potential. I visited McKeesport three weeks ago (my first time in three years) and I was hungry. I could have gone to EatnPark, Kings, or some other chain, but I choe to go down to the Marina and eat at the Water Street Grill at the Pallisades Building. I read about it in one of your previous stories. I was impressed with the improvements made to the building (new light fixtures, entry, etc. I enjoyed a fish sandwhich with french fries. The french fries were the best I’ve tasted in a long time. As I looked aout the large winndows I thought that this place could be the beginning of a great downtown revitalization effort. It’s a shame that people have such a negative impression of the place.
John Mayer - August 24, 2004




I once spent a summer in Mckeesport. While I was there I had a job at dish network. Being that I was by myself with out transportation I didn’t get to travel and enjoy it much.

The bus system was horrible, quit scary. And I had to walk from N.Versailles along the highway threw the woods to get to work. I even almost got mugged twice in one week. I had to be at Dish at 6 in the morning. It took an hour to get there.

Needless to say I returned home to Orange County CA so happy to be home. The area I grew up in as a child was considered a ghetto. But it compaired to Mckeesport it was the ritz.

However as much as I disliked it. I also fell in love with this town. It gave me an understanding for what people talk about on the east coast. To understand about poverty and how hard it is to find a job. To understand about the buildings that sit around as skeletal reminders of better times that now breed death.

Looking at these remains though I can see how beautiful this city once had been. I loved looking at the homes and grave yards. And even if the buildings were condemend. They were still beautiful and quit fun to picture.

And now we know why I almost get mugged. Walking at 5 a.m. next to the river and poking around abandon buildings.

All and all. In it’s decaying precence Mckeesport holds it’s breath in rememberance of a time that was and is. That affixation alone is more beauty than any city I have seen here in California.
Jessy - February 02, 2006




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